vstrom2alaska

Thirty day trip from Raleigh, NC to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska.

Name:
Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina, United States

Monday, July 31, 2006

July 30 Sunday

Left Greensburg, IN around 7:30. I was headed home!!! It was foggy and that was great for riding … no sun and the temperatures were cooler. Making good time, but trying to stay under the state troopers radar—very difficult to keep the speed down when you’re headed home …

Had to take an alternate route since a bridge was under repair—no problem for the GPS. It routed me along some great 2 lane roads in Kentucky—beautiful rural farms and gentle twisty roads. It’s Sunday morning and I pretty much have the roads to myself. All the time I’m thinking, make sure you slow down for the towns—experience tells me there is a local cop out to get me. As I’m leaving a restricted speeding zone, I get to the edge of town and I can see the 55 sign in the distance so I open it up. As I round the curve, there he is--a trooper coming toward me in the opposite lane! He looks at me (and I look at him) and down at my speed … A train of cars are stacked up behind him and he is in a difficult place to turn around. I round the bend and am out of sight—I look in my rearview and my heart is pounding. Luck is on my side, no flashing lights—he let me go …

Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, West Virginia, (paying tolls …) Virginia, and finally home in North Carolina. Met my family for my favorite dinner from my favorite restaurant. Great to see everyone … thanks to my wife for encouraging me to go (and to come back …).

Thanks to family and friends for all your support and encouragement. Special thanks to my traveling friends—Jeff, Olivia, and Joe. It was the best of times!!!

Tomorrow: Metacognitive Retrospective

Saturday, July 29, 2006

July 29 Saturday



Left DesMoines around 9 and headed for the superslab. My goal was a modest 600 miles. Got mired down in the heat again, but not as bad as yesterday. Mid-afternoon I took a nap at the best rest stop I have ever seen! Nice shaded trees and grass just for me. It was the best nap ever and I didn't get arrested for vagrancy :)

Made good time after the nap and stopped in Greensburg, IN for gas. They were having a car show (great band too) and I decided to stop for the night. I won the prize for the bike with the most dirt! Jerry's 35 Chevy was awesome ...


Tomorrow: Home!!!

Friday, July 28, 2006

July 28 Friday



Left the EconoLodge at 7 before the major heat. Headed for the Badlands. There were already fire trucks there! Probably just a precaution because I didn't see any fires.

The morning light in the Badlands is fantastic!!!! Took a lot of pictures and even found a "peace rock." Thought it was particularly appropriate given the world situation today. The Badlands was my last tourist thing.

Around 11 I put on the Aerostich and headed home. It was hot ... very hot--did I say it was hot? It was hot--109!!! Stopped because I had run out of water, not gas. Filled up with gas and water--would have had lunch except for the long lines that were created by the tour bus that stopped just ahead of me. Had a biker lunch of cheese crackers, beef jerky, and peanuts. Did I mention that it was hot?

Next gas stop was at the Iowa border. 32 0z Gartorade and chicken strips fixed me up. Bought a bag of ice and filled all my pockets--did I mention that it was hot? It was definitely hot.

I was determined to do 600 miles. When I got to DesMoines I found a Hampton Inn!!! Now I'm at the Granite City Food and Brewpub with wi-fi, Chicken Parm and an IPA--life is good!

Heard from Jeff--he's alive and well at St. Hellens. Yet to hear from Joe--hope he's ok.

Tomorrow--Louisville

Thursday, July 27, 2006

July 27 Thursday


Devil’s Tower was the first stop—an impressive monolithic structure. Was able to post to the blog at the Trading Post.

Traveled to Deadwood via the Spearfish Canyon—just to get a taste of the local roads. It’s close to Sturgis and there are a lot of motorcycles in town—all clean Harley’s. My bike is a stark contrast with all the dirt and mud from Alaska. Several people commented on my NC plate and that I was a long way from home. When I mentioned that I was on the way home from Alaska/Prudhoe Bay it was incomprehensible—did you ride there?

It’s windy today and the heat is an intense 108 today (120 in the Badlands with a hiking death from dehydration). At Wall, I decided to call it a day. Jumped in the pool and headed downtown to Wall Drug for a touristy dinner.

Will hit the Badlands early in the morning when its not so hot and then head for home.

July 26 Wednesday




Left Great Falls around 10, blindly following the GPS. Sometimes it routes you in unusual places—found myself in the middle of “Dick’s RV and Camping.” When I looked down the road I could see that it had been blocked off. A quick check of the GPS and I could see that it was taking me right down the middle of a street barricade. All the Alaska experience finally paid off … I just went right through the barricade,over the curb, and I was on the correct street—pretty cool!

I left the mountains behind and am in a new kind of beauty—grasslands, wheat, horses, and cattle country. Followed 89S through lonely roads, small towns, and beautiful scenery. Hit the “loose gravel” construction zone one more time—no problem, I had plenty of experience—it just added the Montana dust to the Canada and Alaska dust on my Aerostich!

Once I hit the interstate it was just follow my nose to the east. Stopped in Buffalo, WY for the night. Paul, Joe, and I came through here on our California trip. It’s the place where we celebrated Paul’s “performance award.” Thanks Paul for taking the rap for us!

Camped at the Blue Gable—pool, wireless, and all the comforts of home. Had my favorite dinner and ice cream--walked through the beautiful downtown. It’s a great place … hope to return one day when I can spend more time.
Tomorrow: The Badlands

PS: Thanks trading post at devil's tower for the wi-fi connection!

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

July 25 Tuesday



Took one last look at the map and Joe headed off for Cleveland—needs to get there by Friday. Three days and 2100 miles—also needs a rear tire. Hope all goes well.

I went through Glacier and on towards the Badlands. We all started together but now we are on our separate adventures (Seattle, Key West, Cleveland …)

I'm looking forward to a new day, leaving the comfort and security of traveling with friends and headed out alone. Glacier was great, but slow. The road is unique in that it wraps closely around the mountain. Over the continental divide and you can see forever!!!

Met Ahren and Leah. They had been to the Baja--I'm putting it on my list. Left Glacier on 89S--a great road--twistier than you would think. Feels good to open it up--accelerate, gear down, and power out.

The Montana landscape is changing from the mountains to the rolling grasslands of big sky country. I'm rolling now!

Hoped to make it to Billings, but was sidetracked by a Hampton Inn sign that advertised--indoor pool and the internet! Decided that Great Falls was a great place to spend the night. Tony Roma's was across the street! I was back in civilization.

Hope Joe, Jeff and Olivia are doing as well ...

Tomorrow: towards Rapid City

July 24 Monday

Joe needed to return to Cleveland by Friday, so the objective was to get him down the road. We left Jasper around 10—headed down the Icefields Parkway. It was magnificent country. The Canadian Rockies are spectacular. Beautiful weather sort of like Alaska but warmer and with traffic—a lot of motorhomes. Stopped at the Columbia Glacier and walked up—wow!

Jeff and Olivia were headed to Seattle. Joe and I needed to get on down the road so we said our good byes on the glacier. We had traveled many miles and experienced many wonderful times together but now it was time for us to go our separate ways. Thanks Jeff for taking the lead and thanks Olivia for documenting our trip with wonderful photos!

Joe and I had lunch at Lake Louise—this is a must see. Olivia said we should go there and it is incredible. The mountains come down to the lake and we dined amid harp music and elegant surroundings (much too nice for biker scum) in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.

93S (Bow Valley Parkway) is a wonderful road over the Continental Divide. A lot of wildlife (big horn sheep, carribo, two huge moose, and many deer—but no time to stop. We were on a mission to get to the border!

Crossed into the USA around 9-it was great to be back! As we traveled toward Whitefish, the sun was setting at our backs.

I could see it in my rear view mirror--sort of nostalgic and retrospective, looking back at all the great times in Alaska and Canada.

Stopped in Whitefish for the night. Joe and I had our last dinner at the bowling alley—he would be leaving early for Cleveland.

July 23 Sunday


Left Telkwa around 10 headed for Jasper. The area is beautiful … a lot like Alaska with traffic. We can tell were back to civilization—the gas stops have snacks (not only a snack but a lot of snacks, too many choices). No more electric vest … it’s hot!
Got to Jasper around 6—it’s a happening place. Sort of touristy with expensive hotels. Joe and I decided to camp.

They had 9 bear sightings today. Because of the hot weather the bears are coming down the mountain. So … this could be my last post.

Having my favorite dinner at the Jasper Pizza Palace--on the rooftop patio. Life is good!

Tomorrow: Banff toward Glacier National Park and the USA

Sunday, July 23, 2006

July 22



Hyder to Telkwa

Talked with Brian (GS1150 from MA) and he said you have to go to the Salmon Glacier. It's down the same dirt road where we saw the bears--about 20 miles. We figured it would take about an hour. We spent 4 hours there--it's absolutely incredible!!! The glacier is blue, not just any blue but an awesome glacier blue. The weather was cool. Small streams and waterfalls cascade down the mountain to the glacier. There is also a river of cold air that travels with the stream. When you cross one by motorcycle you can feel how cold they are. You might miss that in a car.

You have to be there in person--no photograph can capture it. Seems like every day is more spectacular than the day before--but this is a new best! The Salmon Glacier--put it on your list.

Left Hyder around 3, determined to get closer to Jasper. We got to Telkwa. Stayed in a great place on the river (Two Rivers). Ate at the Three Bridges--became good friends with Ian, Jason, etc. Solved all the world's problems.

Today was the best ever ... life is good.

Friday, July 21, 2006

July 21 Friday


Dease Lake to Hyder

Left in the rain, but I was prepared this time. Sealed up real good and turned on the electrics. The Cassiar Highway could just be the best highway yet. The lakes are fantastic--really big, realy blue, and the snow capped mountains come right down to the lakes.

Some gravel and mud due to the rain. Stopped at Bell II for a great lunch. They do heliskiing--we'll have to come back!

Went by several glaciers on the way to Hyder. We stopped at the first and took a lot of photos. The next glacier was even more impressive, so we took more photos. The next glacier was even more impressive, so we took even more photos. Each road we take is the best--it can't get any better than this!!!

In Hyder we saw bears and salmon spawning--it was too cool. My favorite dinner on the porch of our cabin--wow!

Tomorrow--headed towards Jasper.

July 20 Thursday


Whitehorse to Dease Lake (Cassier Highway)

Woke up early and had breakfast at the Riverview. Walked around town while everyone got ready. Whitehorse is on the Yukon River and many people come here to canoe. The Yukon is a huge fast-moving river.

Joe got his Shoei repaired at the Yamaha dealer and Jeff picked up chain lube (Scott oiler lost the delivery tube) at the Honda dealer. We left in good weather but it soon turned to rain—and cold. Stopped in Teslin for lunch and gas—we were wet!

After lunch the rain stopped. We put on another layer for the cold and headed for the Cassier Highway. After an hour on the road, I could not stay awake and we stopped for gas. I took a short nap on a picnic table by a lake. It made all the difference and soon we were on our way again.

The Cassiar is a great road amid beautiful mountains and lakes. Saw a brown bear along the way. Stopped at a Jade Shop—the area produces 85% of the world’s jade. Had a wonderful hot chocolate and pressed on to Dease Lake. After a short dirt section we saw the lake—a pristine ocean of a lake. The deepest blue with spruce trees on the edge and rising up to snow capped mountains. Blue sky with perfect white clouds all around—it was a post card.

Stayed at the Mountain Inn. They called over to the restaurant that was about to close. The waited for us and we had dinner with blueberry pie for dessert. Another wonderful day with great roads and incredible scenery.

Tomorrow we head toward Hyder.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

July 19 Wednesday


Dawson City to Whitehorse

Slept like a rock until 8. Went to the Chinese restaurant for the $4.99 breakfast special—the best breakfast I ever had at a Chinese restaurant! Spent the morning walking around Dawson—a great gold rush town on the Yukon River. Went by the cemetery on the way out of town. Headed for Whitehorse. Much construction on the way—typical loose gravel and some slippery mud.

Great weather, stopped for gas and took of the electric vest for the first time in many days. Again it was fantastic scenery. At Carmack we stopped for ice cream on the Yukon River. Met several people from Germany and France canoeing the river. Apparently it’s a great thing to canoe from Whitehorse to Dawson City. Some had flown to Vancouver—taken the ferry to Skagway, walked the gold rush trail and then canoed. I’ve put it on my list—sounds great!

In Whitehorse we had my favorite dinner and did laundry. Tomorrow it’s on to Watson Lake and down the Cassier Highway. Our goal over the next couple of days is to make it to Jasper.

July 18 Tuesday


MacLaren River to Dawson City, Yukon

Finished the Denali Highway amid fantastic scenery (one of the best). Construction outside of Tok on the Tok Cutoff was scary (dust covered mud). Top of the World Highway was next (it just might be the best …). There are a lot of bests here!

Memories include stopping at Chicken, the border crossing, dust, following Olivia’s yellow helmet. Did I mention the dust? After Chicken we realized that the border closes at 8. We had 47 miles to go and one hour. Jeff and Olivia took off on the dirt—dust clouds billowing behind. Joe and I were in the dust! Did I mention the dust? Long story—short, we made it with a minute to spare. It was like the Baja 1000. Passing the Jeep, deep gravel in the turns, and the magnificent scenery were the highlights.

After the border we hit some paved sections—thanks Canada! Saw my first grizzly bear. The View into Dawson across the Yukon River was fantastic. Took the ferry into Dawson and found lodging at the Downtown Hotel. Pizza/beer at Mama Cita’s and ice cream cones (double scoop/waffle cone) concluded a perfect day.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

July 17

Slept on the porch at the hostel last night. Cool, crisp air by a small stream amid the mountains--doesn't get any better than that!

Had a wonderful breakfast at 229 Parks Cafe--herb quiche, cappucino, and a fruit torte ...

Went to Denali to hike. Olivia took us on the Savage River trail--spectacular!!!

Took the Denali Highay (dirt and gravel) to the MacLaren River Lodge. It's on the river with a view of the glacier ... is that cool or what?
















Tomorrow--Top of the World Highway to Dawson.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

July 16


July 16 Sunday

Check out Olivia's blog at

http://vstrong2upalaska.blogspot.com

Walked to breakfast across the street. Had a great breakfast of oatmeal. It was an interesting contrast with the previous evening. Eating anonymously with strangers vs. the warm hospitality of the Jack River Nation. Sent the morning getting ready for the rafting trip and updating the blog in the common area of the hostel.

Met Al at the Denali Outdoor Center for rafting. Got into our dry suits and on to the bus to be transported to the river. After our safety talk, Al expertly guided us through class III rapids. It was too cool.

After the trip we dined at Bub's Subs--the best. Said good by hoping to meet again. Thanks Al, Joanna, and Rachel Mae and the Jack River Nation for your wonderful Alaskan hospitality!

July 15 Saturday

Started the day with the most incredible jacuzzi/shower at the 7 Gables Inn. It's all digital--precise temperature control and more buttons/controls that you can imagine. The shower spray comes from the top and is drenching. It was wonderful and we felt like we deserved it after the hardships of the past 4 days.

We got tires at Northern Powersports. Doug inspected the bike and said we were good to go.

Called Clem and gave me Al/Joanna's contact information. They were expecting us and we were looking forward to meeting for dinner. After picking up provisions in Fairbanks we were on our way.

We stayed at the Denali Mountain Morning Hostel, a fantastic place in the middle of paradise. After checking in, it was on to meet Al, Joanna, and Rachel Mae. They live in a wonderful log cabin. The visit was the highlight of our trip. They have warm and wonderful friends that joined us for dinner. A good time as had by all and we departed around midnight--better for having been there.

Saturday, July 15, 2006


July 14

There is no breakfast in Wiseman so we had the typical biker breakfast—cheese crackers and an orange that I had from Tok. We pooled our snacks—granola bars, trail mix, etc. We walked around Wiseman and met George, Jim, and Lloyd. They filled us in on the origins of the town. Gold mining was the beginning in the earl 1900’s. Left around noon and headed toward Fairbanks. It was a lot easier now that we were experienced “haul road” veterans—we waved at the bikers headed north with a knowing smile. We stopped again at the Hot Spot. Definitely get the pulled pork bbq sandwich! Mrt Mike who is Bicycling to Deadhorse. Now that’s a feat! We wised him all the best.

The roughest sections were not as difficult and we finished up around 7. Stayed at the 7 Gables again. Celebrated at the Red Fox. Became good friend with Patrick who promised to take us snowmobiling if we returned in the winter.

Fairbanks is great--internet and cell phone. It's late but her's an update on the blog. The connection is slow--so text only. Will try and upload some photos in the morning.

July 13

Woke up to overcast skies … hoping that it will clear. Two other motorcylists arrived during the night—7 bikes total 2 V-strom 1000, 1 V-Strom 650, 1 Honda 750 Shadow, 2 KLR’s, and a 1200 GS.

Took the tour to the Arctic Ocean. Several took the plunge ... It was definitely refreshing!

We packed and I left my Tri-DOD motorcycle shirt in a special place to let some lucky person find it—wanted to leave proof that we had motorcycled to the northernmost point. It was fun! Prudhoe Bay was great.



Left around noon for the return. We had the benefit of experience ant it made all the difference for me. I only felt like I was going to crash once—a grader was pushing gravel in our lane. We had to go over a berm to get to the next lane. I was following Jeff … he did it so I figured—no problem. I was wrong. However I was able to keep the shiny side up and continued. We were able to avoid the rain until Atigun Pass—then the rain hit. It was more of a challenge in the rain, but no problem for experienced motorcyclists like us.
Our accommodations were at the Boreal Lodge in Wiseman—the best yet! A most excellent cabin with a loft. I slept like a rock. After breakfast of cheese crackers and an orange we were on our way back to Fairbanks.

July 12

Left Coldfoot enroute to Deadhorse—244 miles amid great weather. Stopped by Wiseman to book accommodations for the return. Saw a moose cross the road in front of us—she was going from the river, across the road and into the woods. One of many wildlife sightings during the day.

Antigun Pass was spectacular!!! A long winding road uphill to snow covered mountains. Took some photos—in awe of the scale of everything. Started the descent into the Brooks Range—wow!

Stopped for lunch by a stream crossing near the pipeline. A swarm of mosquitoes immediately descended upon us. “Off” was our primary defense. Lunch was peanuts, beef jerky, cheese crackers, and water from our Camelback—the best lunch ever!

The road narrowed and we pulled over to allow a truck maximum room to come up the hill. We were in the dreaded mud … almost had my first crash sliding amid the ruts. Was also “dive bombed” by a mad seagull—must have thought my white helmet was a large egg!

It was a most challenging day of riding … a lot of slippery mud and deep gravel. I feel fortunate not to have crashed several times. Jeff continued to lead the way with much skill riding 2-up with Olivia. Joe also made it through unscathed—who would have thought that a cruiser bike do so well in the dirt—must be the rider ...

We had one brief rain event. We were headed for a rain cloud. You could see the rain from a great distance. It was weird because blue sky was all around the cloud. As we drove under the cloud it became much cooler and windy. The rain was coming down harder and being blown horizontal. After the rain we saw a most unusual phenomenon--a broad flat rainbow that filled the sky.

Checked into the Arctic Caribou Inn—buffet dinner and walked around Deadhorse. Flew my kite for fun and retired for the night … Actually there is no night … its 24 hours of daylight—the sun will not set again until August 2!

Looking back it was a great day, spectacular scenery and good friends to share it with. We’ve traveled more than 5000 miles to the northernmost road in Alaska—the end of the line, as far as you can go. We’re satisfied …

Tomorrow we start to head back (older and wiser)—filled with new experiences, insights, and stories. We’ll return over the same roads but we will experience them anew from a different direction. More to come!

July 11

Made the final preparations for the run up the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse, (updating our wills, final phone calls to home, etc.) We left in ideal conditions, sunny and warm. I took this as a good sign, but I was wrong.

The Haul Road has a reputation and I had many emotions—anticipation, excitement, and fear. We asked people about the road they would tell us about accidents, flat tires, trucks running you off the road, and the construction areas with mud. Then they would express surprise that you would do this on a motorcycle. They would say you must be crazy and I was starting to believe it. It was too cool!!!

We took photos at the beginning of the Dalton. The mosquitos were ferocious. As soon as we stopped they swarmed all over us—even though it was raining. Then we started. The road immediately turned to mud. We all were sliding around in deep mud and ruts. It was difficult to keep the bikes upright. The flat section was followed by a long climb uphill, 450 miles of this in the rain seemed impossible. However conditions improved, the rain stopped, the road improved and we were in blue sky. Our spirits improved and we had the confidence of experience knowing that we had met the first challenge.

The rest of the day was blue sky and magnificent scenery. In particular one valley—spectacular fire weed in bloom. The valley and up into the mountains were covered in purple.

We stopped for obligatory photos at the Artic Circle and then it was on to Coldfoot for the night. Met several other crazy motorcyclists, had dinner and prepared for the next day—the Antigun Pass, the Brooks Range and on to Deadhorse. Hoping for good weather—this will be our most challenging test.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

July 10


We're "ivin large"at the 7 Gables Inn. We're all in the Penthouse Jaccuzzi Suite. Got the day off to a great start with breakfast. Did some wash, and headed for Northern Powersports for an oil change and tires. The fine people there advised us that our tires were ok for the "haul road." They said the road would eat up the tires so we will just get a set when we return ... hopefully on Friday. The plan is to go to Coldfoot (1/2 way) and spend the night. Wednesday we will go to Deadhorse. Thursday we will return to Fairbanks if we can. If not we will stay midway and return on Friday. It's a challenging trip. Hope all goes well. Wish us luck.

Sunday, July 09, 2006

July 9

Woke up at 4 ... the sun is just coming up. Called Clem from the parking lot (8 am in Raleigh.) The first call in several days--good to talk and hear her voice. After the call it was back to the room, everyone else was sleeping so the blogmeister added to the blog.

We left Tok around 9 headed for Fairbanks. We completed the Alaska Highway and congratulated each other for accomplishing one more goal! Seems like a long time since we started in Dawson Creek. Many miles riding behind Jeff and many good memories.

En route to Fairbanks we stopped at a scenic overlook for photos. Olivia documented the majestic valley with her excellent photographic skills.
















We also stopped at the North Pole. Santa Claus was just sitting around with Ms. Claus. I put in a good word for everyone, but especially for Alex, Katie, and Ben. In the photo you can see the postcard that Santa gave me to send to each of you, so check the mailbox.

We're staying at the 7 Gables Inn in Fairbanks. Its near the river and they have canoes and kayaks to loan. The good news is we had a great time paddleing down river to a restaurant. The bad news is that we had to paddle back ... upstream. We all learned that its harder to paddle upstream! Today it was sunny, blue skies, and hot. A welcome change--hope the good weather continues. Tomorrow is a non-riding day as we do maintenance in preparation for the ride to Prudhoe Bay.

Saturday, July 08, 2006

July 8



Left Teslin around 9. Sunny and cool 10C. The road went by the lake—a fantastic view with the snow-capped mountains in the distance. The scenery became more phenomenal at every turn. Soon we were headed down a corridor surrounded by snow-capped peaks in every direction. At Haines Jct. we stopped for gas and lunch. To save time everyone shared snacks—peanuts, granola bars, trail mix, apple, and cheese. It was a great lunch in the parking lot of the Shell station. Magnificent scenery was all around. Motorcylists were constantly stopping for gas and sharing stories about road conditions. Seems like the road north had a lot of construction and was very slippery in spots--to hear everyone tell about their experiences it sounded like the road was impassible!

We headed out not knowing what to expect. Looking back … the roads were no problem. Some “loose gravel” that we took at 120K, some long chip seal sections, and some “bumps.” The bikes are starting to have “character” with mud streaks etc. We’re looking the same way and getting some good experience for the “haul road” to Prudhoe Bay.

We stopped at the border for celebratory photos. We finally made it to Alaska. We appreciate everyone’s interest and support. While we were at the “Welcome to Alaska” sign, a tour bus of retired people arrived. We had several offers to trade places …

Right now we’re “livin’ the dream” and are on schedule to be in Fairbanks on Sunday.

July 7


Left Frog River in the rain. Stopped at the Laird Hot Springs. Hard to believe it’s a natural phenomenon. Huge pools that are 70 degrees. It was a unique part of the trip.
As we were leaving a woman slipped on the deck around the pools--she broke her hip! Jeff and Joe jogged for help. A person with medical training attended to the woman and we left. After an hour on the road north we saw the ambulance coming to get her.

An interesting highlight was the Watson signpost forest—a forest of signs from around the world!

The rest of the day was riding in the rain amid spectacular scenery. Towering mountains all around—some with snow still on the peaks. Huge lakes with trees right down to the edge. The roads were fantastic, taking us right through the middle of a wonderful land--across the continental divide. Along the way we saw buffalo lounging by the side of the road and wild horses.

We arrived wet. It was a good test of my wet weather gear—will have to make some changes for the run to Deadhorse. We stayed in Teslin—a beautiful community on a lake. We dryed our clothes, had a good night’s sleep and are ready for a new day. Hope to make it to the Alaska border tonight and Fairbanks on Sunday. It’s 42 degrees and dry! Looking forward to a new day.

Friday, July 07, 2006



Left Dawson Creek in a steady rain. The day was not looking too good :( But we were all sealed up. It was cool so I had on my electric vest and the heated grips were working great. Imperious to the elements we may have looked like we were from another planet, but we felt invincible and ready for anything. Then all of a sudden, the weather cleared around milepost 20 and Jeff saw a sign to “Old Alaska Highway.” A quick U-turn and we were riding on a piece of history!

Soon the road turned to gravel and we were excited by the possibilities! Maybe we could get some practice before the gravel road to Prudhoe Bay.

Then from around the corner emerged the highlight of the trip so far! The Kiskatinaw Bridge, the last remaining timber bridge on the highway. It was what we had come this far to discover! It spanned a gigantic gorge with a magnificent river below.

Olivia took many photos and we all took turns showboating on the bridge. Jeff also took the opportunity to ride the extremely challenging dirt on the “Kiskatinaw Bridge Trail” and I have the picture to prove it.

After 100 miles or so we stopped for gas at the Blueberry Esso and ate at the café. It was a typical café and I took a photo of Olivia with the bikes in the background. We traveled on to Ft Nelson (through the smoke and forest fires) and arrived around 4. Since we had time, we decided to press on to Toad River. Jeff made reservations and we were off.

This was the best riding so far!!! The scenery in British Columbia is fantastic—unlike anything I’ve ever ridden through … huge and immense. The mountains are huge, the valleys are deep and wide, and the rivers are free flowing. The evergreens are tall and narrow like spires. At one point I felt like I was riding in a Cathedral--definitely a spiritual experience.

The roads were the best part--roads that had to be designed by and for a motorcyclist. Roads that you can see forever--snaking down the mountain, into the valley, and then disappearing over the crest of the next mountain—endless roads, each one better than the previous.

We were riding in the late afternoon—5:30 to 7. The air was perfect—cool, crisp, and so clean it has to add 20 years to your life. There’s very little traffic so we had the road to ourselves. The occasional RV or car could easily be passed and not interrupt the flow of the ride. Set up for the curve, downshift and power out. Jeff set a great pace and we were like 3 specks in a vast universe—hurtling through space.

It reminded me of a video game—almost a fantasy. The scenery is so beautiful and so immense it can’t be real. Every turn in the road brings a new vista and at motorcycle speed the images are too much to comprehend. Finally we arrive at Toad River and check in. What a magnificent day!

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Dawson Creek


We did it!!! 3006 miles from home and we've arrived at the beginning of the Alaska Highway. Had a great ride from Edmonton and arrived in Dawson Creek around 4. Got to the "Milepost 0" sign and got some photos just before the tour bus of retired people decended and took over. Joe and I went to camp. Had dinner with Roy and Bob from Mass ... they are headed to Alaska too. Hoping the good weather continues.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Edmonton


Had another long hard day of riding. Another 900 K. Saw many Cannola fields and an interesting orthodox church, a potash factory, and beautiful lakes. The gas is not nearly as plentiful and is also more expensive--$1.06 per liter. Got to Edmonton around 5. Olivia was at the hotel--tomorrow we can all head to Dawson Creek together.

Washed clothes and sat in the hot tub until they finished. At 7 we all went to have my favorite dinner, (pizza and beer) at Cosmo's. Wore my Hurricanes shirt and has some great conversations with the local Oilers fans. Edmonton knows hockey and they are all fans!

Very friendly people in Canada. I left the shirt in Edmonton just to let some lucky person know that a Hurricanes fan had been there ...

Monday, July 03, 2006

Yorkton


We're in Yorkton, tonight. 900 K or so ... it's Canada you know. Cruising along at 100 (K that is ...)

Crossed the border successfully with the goal of making it to Saskatoon but it was not to be. Too much traffic around Winnipeg and the slower two lane roads caused us to not make as much progress.

Up early and then it's on to Edmonton--I plan to wear my Hurricanes shirt! Olivia is flying in and we look forward to seeing her.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

I 94 West


Terre Haute to Fergus Falls, MN 800 miles (1500 from home)

No pictures to post just memories of the day. Left Terre Haute around 8:30. Davidson rode with us on his Honda Knighthawk 750 for about an hour. Then we split and headed for the interstate west and north. We're rolling ... !

Then we hit rain and a massive traffic backup at the toll in Rockford, IL. Our momentum was coming undone ... adversity!

Tough to pay a toll in full rain gear. Take off you gloves, find your money, pay and then put you gloves back on :^(

I'm thinking motorcycles should be free! Plus we had to wait in the traffic back up for 30 minutes to get the privilege of of paying.

However the best part of the day was yet to come. Experiencing the landscape change from the corn fields in Indiana, to the energy farm in Illinois, the dairy cattle in Wisconsin, and the lakes in Minnesota.

Traveling together through time and space at motorcyle speed. We were finally in the moment and realizing why we had come this far. As we were approaching the end of the day we were:

driving into the sun on I 94 toward Fargo
watching the sun set
in and out of the clouds
the orange glow sending rays to meet us

with the sun setting
you could feel the temperatures falling
and the chill sent a shiver
feels good to be alive!

the sun is disappearing behind the clouds
but the glow told you it was still there
as we drove under the clouds
a cool misting rain was decending

finally we emerged, from under the clouds
to find that the bright sun was now
a glowing orange ball on the horizon

as we chased it through the dells
it would disappear and emerge
again and again
as we crested each hill

it was like a movie and the lyrics of a song
only better
because we were the movie and the music was us!



Tomorrow: Canada en route to Edmonton

Saturday, July 01, 2006

Terre Haute




We had a fantastic second day. Marion, Va to Terre Haute, Indiana (500 miles or so ...) Started the day with great roads Rt. 16 to Tazewell was the best. Cool morning, great scenery, and challenging twisties. Slabbed it to Lexington, Louisville, and route 46 to Bloomington. Met George in Bloomington and he rode with us on his 1200 Sportster to Terre Haute. Davidson's family welcomed us with wonderful hospitality and a most excellent dinner. After dinner it was "zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance" in the driveway by "see, speak, and hear no evil."

A great time was had by all. Life is good on the second day of the trip. Our next goals is to make it to Edmonton to meet Olivia on July 4.